
The SenseLamp is an ultra-low cost (less than 30GBP/45US$), WiFi enabled sensor platform that is easy to build, easy to deploy and fully open source. A SenseLamp is a lamp shade that can be remotely controlled and gathers temperature, humidity, light-levels and motion data. It runs Linux and can do some on-board processing before passing the data on to e.g. busfarhn or COSM.
The story
The purpose of all this is to put a temperature, humidity, light-level and motion sensor in every room. And while we’re at it, throw in a relay to control a light-bulb. This combination allows some nice home-automation to be implemented. Even further: it provides a test-bed for activity recognition and helps to implement the idea of a quantified self. But in the end, it really just sounded like a fun thing to do.
Mark 0
I learned three things from this first prototype:
- The Linux CDC ACM drivers are buggy: it seems to be a well known problem that the Launchpads serial interface doesn’t work so well in Linux. The reason for this is a bug in the CDC ACM kernel module (see here, here and here). Despite the patches provided, I was unable to fix the issue on the WR703N resulting a bit of instability. A cronjob to reboot the router every 6 hours served as a usable workaround, but certainly does not fix the issue.
- HTTP only goes so far: using a simple HTTP based interface implemented via CGI worked beautifully for the central heating control as the interface was unidirectional. The SenseLamp however, needs to be able to send sensor data as well. So a different protocol/interface is needed.
- It will have to look better than this: While the dremeled lunchbox worked fine as a first prototype, I wouldn’t want plastic lumps hanging throughout my flat. So if I was to deploy this on a bigger scale (count > 1), it would have to look better than this.
Mark I
- forgot the PIR sensor: the lesson learned here is never design a PCB in a hurry. For some reason I forgot to add the the appropriate pinheaders for the PIR sensor on the PCB. So I had to compensate for that while wiring up the whole thing – it worked, but it was messy. Because like this the PIR sensor can not simply sit on the board, it has to be placed somewhere on the frame. Yet another thing to consider.
- assembly was still too difficult: which is in part due to the PIR screw-up. Until this version I assumed I could simply tie it all together using some good old zipties. But as it turns out the holes in the relay board, as well as the router board are close to M2 and that’s too small for those standard 50mm zipties. So, I’d have to put in screws. Combine that with my tendency to pack everything too tight (on the frame) and you end up with something that’s very hard to put together.
- DHT11 sensors are too inaccurate: according to their datasheet, DHT11 sensors have a tolerance of +- 2 Celsius and 1% humidity. That’s quite a lot when one wants to monitor temperatures in the range of 20 +- 3 degrees. So I needed better sensors: the pin-compatible DHT22 to the rescue.
Mark II
How it’s made
Hardware

Besides the sensors, there are two main hardware components involved: the wr703n router and the SenseLamp board. As the figure shows, the router merely passes through the 5V USB power and provides WiFi – effectively turning a Linux machine into a wifi shield. This is still twice as cheap as buying a dedicated WiFi shield. And as power consumption is not really of concern here, this works just fine.
Power supply
To connect the 5V power supply (which comes with the wr703n), I solder cables to the plugs of the power supply and wire them in parallel to the light bulb.
Sensor board
WR703N
Software
The MSP430 firmware has to deal with all the sensors and serial communication to the "WiFi shield". Thanks to that awesome project called Energia, writing code for the MSP430 is as convenient as it is with an Arduino (but at a fraction of the cost). The firmware can be found in the GitHub repository.
OpenWRT and busfahrn

I’ve written a simple TCP based client that bridges between busfarhn and the SenseLamp firmware. It relays incomming commands and translates the SenseLamp output into busfarhn messages. All of that code can be found in the GitHub repository of busfarhn.
DIY
First things first: all SenseLamp material is open source. If not stated otherwise, it is published under the MIT license and can be found on GitHub. Should you be in the process of building one yourself and have questions – I’d be happy to help.
Building a SenseLamp is a straight forward process, involving three main activities:
- Gathering all parts and components
- Assembling the hardware
- Flashing OpenWRT and firmware + installing some userland driver program.
Gathering all parts and components
The part count of a SenseLamp is lower than one might expect. Besides the WR703N router and sensors and microcontroller, only common place parts such as resistors and caps are required. The SenseLamp PCB is single-sided, uses exclusively through-hole components and not too fine traces so that it can be produced at home if necessary. Find a A rudimentary bill of materials can be found here.
I bought most of the components from eBay, RS Components and Farnell. The board was manufactured by SeeedStudio Fusion. It took roughly a month to source all parts – including the custom PCB.
Assembling the hardware
Hardware assembly takes part in three stages:
- First, all components have to be soldered to the SenseLamp PCB, some wires to the WR703N router (described above), and some thick enough wires to the 5V power supply coming with the router (it helps to drill a hole in the plugs). Then, a "sandwich" is made by stacking the SenseLamp board on top of the WR703N using M2 screws (I drilled slightly bigger holes in the WR703N) and some spacers, which I 3D printed. Once that tower was assembled, I connected the SenseLamp PCB to a 5V power supply, FTDI 223 3V3 serial cable and TI Launchpad to test the SenseLamp board in isolation and program the firmware.
- The frame is assembled (depends on the kind of frame) and the 5V power supply is added. Try and layout the cables in this stage as well. Add the SenseLamp board sandwich in this stage as well.
- At last one has to wire it all up. I used luster terminals to wire the 5V parallel to the lamp and ran one lead through the relay, so that the lamp could be controlled from the SenseLamp.
At this point it is a good idea to power it all up and see if everything’s working fine. I used a leftover cable, which I opened on one end and fed the leads into the top luster terminal to simulate it hanging from the ceiling.
Closing remarks
All in all I built four of these puppies and installed them in my livingroom, hallway, kitchen and bedroom. For now I’m simply using the light and motion sensor to automatically turn on the light when its dark. The temperature/humidity data is simply logged away and I glance at it every now and then out of interest. In the future I plan to use them for some light activity recognition and infer my sleep times and similar activities from the data.
Another thing I might do is design different frames as I’m not entirely happy with the current form. The WR703N, as well as the relay module both have LEDs which are constantly on and are slightly annoying – despite their usefulness.









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